¡Manos al Sol!

From the club...

            The event started at 4 am, which obviously meant we couldn’t go to sleep and wake up for it, so we decided to go out our favorite club before, “la pimienta.” Leaving the club at 3 am was considered early according to Bolivian standards, as it is normal to get home around 5 or 6 am. So we got home, changed into some warmer clothes and made “breakfast” at 3:30 am. Half asleep, myself and three other girls from France, Germany and the U.S., boarded a bus to Quillacollo, a small town near Cochabamba. From there we were supposed to meet our guide who would take us to the ritual site. However, typical Bolivia, our guide was nowhere in sight, and I in my half awake state had forgotten my phone with his number. So after wandering around the dark plaza, we decided to follow a large group of Bolivians who we figured were going to the same event. After dozing off during a 20 minute trufi ride, along dirt roads, we arrived. None of us knew where we were, but it was the right place because we were surrounded by hundreds of other Bolivians who were also there to celebrate “El Año Nuevo Andino.” The Andean New Year is celebrated on June 21, winter solstice the shortest day of the year. From our guide the night before, we had learned that this celebration is about giving offerings to the “pachamama” (mother earth) and appreciating the unity in the universe, and welcoming the new cycle of the new year.

To the mountains?

After wandering through hundreds of people huddled around fires, we encountered our guide who was holding a large rainbow flag, which is the symbol of the indigenous people, and “pachamama.” I was very confused and groggy at this point, and our guide took us to meet a group of men, who we later found out were the mayor of Cochabamba and other government members. They welcomed us to the celebration and asked where we were from and why we had come, as we were the only gringos in attendance. Just for kicks I told them I was from Canada and my American friend said she was from the U.S. A few minutes later we heard on a loud speaker “Welcome brothers and sisters from Canada! Germany! France!” Not surprisingly they somehow failed to welcome the American.. We then chewed on coca leaves, drank chicha (a celebratory drink made from maize) and danced around a fire as we were being filmed by the local Bolivian news.

Finally as the sun was about to rise, everyone
gathered around a fire where a sacrificial plate of coca leaves and other herbs was burned for the “pachamama”. We were told that a llama would also be scarified, but luckily today the llama was spared. The smoke smelled pungent, but delicious as people danced to the sound of drums and flutes. As the first rays of sun came over the mountain everyone lifted up their hands to welcome the newyear and receive the sun’s energy. At this point I had forgotten my lack of sleep, and was in awe..

Once the sun had fully risen, there was more music, dancing, and chicha.. we drank apí (a delicious warm non-alcoholic corn drink) and had salteñas, the typical breakfast food, which are similar to empanadas, but the meat on the inside is much juicier mmmm!

Then after passing out on the floor of a bus, I made it back to my bed at 11 am.. luckily I didn’t have to work because Evo recently made June 21 a holiday, the only nationally recognized indigenous holiday hooray!